Components for a 5500-Gallon Underground Rainwater System for Drinking

Ever wondered what you'd need to convert collected rain water into usable potable drinking water for your household? Below is an average parts and materials cost for 5500 gallon residential drinking water system. If you interested in utilizing rain water for drinking water (and any other uses) for your household, this gives you an idea of the materials you'd need and the cost it would take.

• 1 5500 gallon precast concrete cistern - $3,844.00
• 1 Wisy Vortex Filter w/ extension - 996.20
• 1 Franklin 10GPM 1/2HP 115V Submersible Cistern Pump - $349.95
• 1 Pressure Tank - $174.00
• 1 Pump Control Kit/Tank Tee Kit - $88.00
• 1 10" Cartridge Filter Housings - $20.00
• 4 Sediment Filters, 10" x 2.5", 20 micron - $22.00 
• 1 18GPM Viqua Plus Series UV System - $875.00
• 1 Pentek 3G Standard 20" Clear Filter Housing - $65.00
• 4 Carbon block filters, 20" x 2.5", 5 micron - $96.00
• 1 Tank Gauge - Tank Level Monitor - $24.95
• 1 Mozzie Stoppa Hi-Flow 4" Flap Valve - $12.00
• 1 Brass Check Valve - $21.50
• 1 Pitless Adapter - $45.80
• 1 Submersible Wire Splice Kit - $4.10 

As you can tell, a lot of parts and supplies are needed for a complete home drinking system. The above list totals roughly $6,660. You will then still need pipe (to carry water from your downspouts to your tank and then to an overflow), water line (to connect from the pump inside the cistern to your house supply), wire (to wire your pump to your panel), excavation work, and backfill gravel (to create a base in the excavated pit for the tank and to backfill around the tank). 

While the supplies listed do not include the cost of labor, it hopefully provides you with an overview of the types of materials that go into a complete installation of a residential drinking water system.

Every Person should have a LifeStraw

There are many different types of insurance available to us nowadays. We have become very adept at making sure we are prepared for numerous bad situations by paying a monthly premium to know that someone will help us in our time in need. We insure our health, our homes, our cars, our credit, our data, our vacations...and the list goes on and on. But what about insuring one of our most basic needs...access to clean water? In many disaster and emergency situations, filing a claim with your agent will probably not be the most effecient way to secure one of your most basic needs for survival. This is why every household should have some type of LifeStraw filtration. 

The LifeStraw personal water filter, a "Best Invention of the Year" (Time magazine) winner, enables users to drink water safely from contaminated water sources. LifeStraw is ideal for homeowners during emergencies such as local flooding which can contaminate drinking water supplies. LifeStraw is also ideal for campers and hikers who may be drinking from rivers or lakes and are unsure of the water safety. Because LifeStraw is lightweight and compact, it is also great for travelers who do not want to rely on the quality of local water.

LifeStraw is the most advanced personal water filter available today. LifeStraw surpasses EPA guidelines for E. coli, Giardia, and Cryptosporidium oocysts, rigorous standards for water filtration.

LifeStraw filters down to an incredible, 0.2 microns in size! This removes virtually all the bacteria (99.9999%) and protozoa (99.9%) from contaminated water, and reduces turbidity (muddiness) by filtering out suspended particles.

LifeStraw Buy One, Give One: for every LifeStraw water filter sold, a child in Africa receives clean water for an entire school year. With a LifeStraw, you not only insure access to clean water for you and your family, but for others as well.

How to irrigate using a low-pressure water system

Ever wondered how to keep your garden watered more efficiently while still using captured rain water? Setting up a low-pressure watering system (a soaker hose system) is a great way! Below are some important tools you'll need and the steps you can take to ensure a well-functioning system.

Tools & Materials

• Plastic or metal stakes 
• MrSoakerhose - pre-measure the path of the hose where you are going to lay it.
• Polytubing
• Filter to keep particles from clogging your soaker hose (recommended is 200 mesh).
• Water timer (can be installed later) 
• Y connector with shutoff, splitters, fittings

*Remember Rain Barrel Soaker Hose is intended for connection to a rain barrel faucet. Connecting it to a normal pressurized faucet may cause spraying and damage to the hose.

Lay Out the Hose in Your Garden Beds: Position soaker hoses throughout the garden near each plant within 6 to 12 inches of the base. On slopes, run across the slope, not up and down. In perennial beds, keep hoses about 18 inches (sandy soils) to 24 inches (clay soil) apart. For annual plants space the runs closer, 12-18 inches apart, to make sure water reaches their shallow roots. Stake the hose into place with stakes wherever it needs it to secure the hose's position.

Hide the Hose: After testing the soaker hose to see that it waters the area well, you can cover it with 2 inches (or more) of mulch, such as wood chips, bark, leaves, or compost, or even decorative rocks. The mulch keeps water from evaporating and helps spread the water flow. It also helps protect the hose from the sun. Have you ever felt the temperature of water that was just sitting in a hose out in the sun? It's hot! Can be used above or below ground. Soaker hose IS NOT for lawn areas.

Stakes: Use to secure soaker hose

Watering times: Start out by running your soaker hose for about 40 minutes once a week, or 20 minutes twice a week for sandy soils and annual plants and gardens that have shallower roots. The goal is to wet the soil in the plant's root zone. You can tell if the plant is getting enough water by digging a hole with a trowel to see if the root zone is wet (wait a while after watering before you check, so the water has time to soak in). Leaves may droop a little on hot days but if they stay droopy after the hottest part of the day, they're probably too dry. Drooping can also be a sign of over watering but again, check the soil first! Once you've got the timing figured out, attach and set a timer to the system. This will make it possible for the watering system to work even when you are on vacation.

Trees: Using a soaker hose encircle the tree with the hose beginning at the drip line. Add a circle of soaker hose every 2' inward from the drip line throughout the root zone. Try to water the soil areas directly beneath the foliage and shaded by the tree. Do not water beyond the drip-line and do not water closer than 3 feet to the trunk base on established trees.

Hanging planters, pots and window boxes: Large, hard to move barrels, pots and window boxes will do better with a slow running soaker hose. Water regularly as the dry season goes on. Hanging plants may require watering more frequently as the wind and sun dry them out. During exceptionally hot weather (80's or 90's) hanging baskets may need watering daily, or even twice daily if the basket has limited soil area.

Maintaining Your Soaker Hose System: Once or twice a year, unscrew the end caps and flush out any accumulated sediment. Flushing it at the start of the year will help you check for leaks, and ensure that it's not plugged. Make sure everyone working in the garden knows the soaker is there under the mulch, so they don't accidentally damage it. Most cuts or nicks can be repaired with couplings. Soaker Hose is UV stabilized - won't freeze in the cold or crack in the sun.

Checkout the designs below to create your ideal soaker hose system:

A great layout for raised beds

Center Design

Bringing the water in to the center will help with a more even water distribution. This design works well if your rows are rather long.

Constant Flow Design

This creates a constant flow of water, helping to provide a more even distribution of water. 

Use Tees on the corners, in place of the elbows, and put a cap on one end of the Tee, so you can remove the cap to blow your system out. This is a closed system

Center Design 2

Coming into the center of your design will help achieve a more even distribution of water. You can use the female fittings or install the soaker hose directly into the tees.

Hill Design

Install soaker hose on a hill by laying your hose across the hill, rather than up and down the hill.

Easy Closed System

This system uses Female ends on both ends, screwed onto the tees for easy removal of the soaker hose, for tilling and winter storage. It is also a closed system.

For large-scale systems

Irrigating your Garden from your Rain Barrel

With Spring right around the corner, many people are planning out their gardens. A major component of a future garden plan is figuring out how to irrigate. Installing a Rain Barrel is a great place to start. Not only is it a source for free water, but it is also clear of chemicals, such as chlorine and flouride, that are often present in city tap water. Your plants will thank you for giving them pure water to drink.

Once you have you a Rain Barrel and it's collecting water, the next thing to figure out is the best method to get that water to your plants. Here is a list of irrigation tips to maximize your precious collected rainwater.

Soil Preparation

-Soils may be sandy and gravely which hurts water retention, or they may have high clay content which can retain too much water. Adding organic material such as compost to your soil will help stabilize either extreme and create a moistiure balanced environment for your plants' roots.

-Prepared beds are ideal for root mobility. Individual planting holes can restrict your plants' roots, thus restricting access to water. Take the time to prepare an entire bed and watch your plants flourish.

-Be sure to mulch. Mulch will help hold moisture that would otherwise evaporate and will also help moderate your soil temperature.

Water Where It Matters

-Many people assume that irrigating your garden involves a hose and spray nozzle working with 45-50 pounds of water pressure. However, this is a perfect example of how not to water your garden. First, you will waste a large amount of water. Much of the water coming out the nozzle will not make it to your plants roots. Second, continually soaking your plants' leaves with water puts them at risk for certain fungal disease. Finally, unless you're using a sprinkler, you must stand there and hold the hose, which is precious time you could be doing something else.

-A soaker hose or drip irrigation system is the best method to water your garden. These methods deliver water right the base of the plant (exactly where you want it), getting right to the roots. As opposed to a spray nozzle, you're giving your plants a slow, steady drink of water that will penetrate deep below the roots. This, in turn, encourages the roots to grow deeper making for a healthier plant. It is important when choosing a soaker hose to use with your rain barrel that you choose a soaker hose that works with low pressure systems, such as this soaker hose here. 

A Few Other Tips

-Water when needed. If rain is in the forecast, hold off on watering your garden. Overwatering can decrease oxygen levels in your soil and can cause root rot, killing your plants.

-Water in the mornings. This will decrease the amount of water that evaporates. Also, if you water with a hose and nozzle (which I advise against), this will give your plants leaves time to dry off, decreasing the risk of fungal disease.

-Pull out the weeds! All those pesky weeds in your garden are drinking water that your lovely, food-producing plants could be drinking. Eliminate the competition.

Happy Gardening!

Restoring an old cistern

   If you're reading this, chances are you just discovered an old brick or stone cistern in your yard. Perhaps you hit a cast iron cap? Or maybe you were out in the yard and noticed a small hole and, as you dug around, noticed that hole got deeper and deeper, and that there were bricks lining the hole? 

Cisterns were a huge part of early infrastructure. It was commonplace – especially in the north – to incorporate a cistern when a new home was constructed pre-1920. In fact, I can almost guarantee that homes built here in Columbus, Ohio by or before 1920 had a cistern or a hand-dug well on-site, and the cistern was probably made from brick, was hand-dug, and was made into a sphere (typically proportional in size to the roof from which it was harvesting rain). We ourselves have come across and/or been inside more than 50 old cisterns within Columbus city limits alone. 

So what are your options if you discover an old cistern? 

Old cisterns can be relatively easy to restore if the following are true:

   1) It is not full of debris;

   2) The downspouts are still connected to the existing downspout drains; and

   3) The cistern is still water tight.

Typically, though, none of those three things are true with old cisterns we come across, in which case it can be a very labor intensive process to get the cistern back up-and-running.

If none of the above three items are true for your tank, then it is most likely going to be less expensive to fill in your existing cistern and replace it with a new tank. However, if the cistern does not have much debris in it, then the most labor-intensive process can be crossed off the list (whew!). 

If you can see inside the tank, then the next thing to check is whether or not downspouts are still running into it. The easiest way to do this is to simply bring a garden hose to the downspout that is closest to your cistern, and, if the downspout runs into a pipe that leads underground, run the water and let it drain straight into that pipe. Let it run for a few minutes, then go to the cistern and listen for incoming water. If nothing, then try another downspout. If nothing again, then chances are good that your downspout drains no longer tie into your cistern, in which case new drainage will have to be run.

If you do have water draining in, then the third and final thing to check is whether the tank is holding water. To do this, fill the tank to a visible water level. Measure, then measure again, and write down the confirmed measurement. Wait a day and take a new measurement. If the two measurements are the same, you're in luck again! If they are not, then your tank walls need to be re-sealed or lined. Re-sealing or lining your cistern is a somewhat DIY-friendly project, and we carry several product lines that help with this process, including our own customized cistern liners made from flexible potable-grade PVC or PE fabric. 

Once the tank is sealed and the downspouts are draining to it, the last step will be establishing a way to draw the water out of the tank. Typically, our customers use electric pumps for this, but we also have helped a lot of folks restore that old-fashioned look by installing our line of manual hand pumps. 

For more information, please contact us today and we can help guide you through the process and get you the products you need to make your job easy, safe, and cost-effective. And, as always, thanks for reading!

Instant $50 Rebate on Rain Barrels for Franklin County Residents

The Franklin Soil and Water Conservation District is offering a $50 rebate for rain barrels through its GreenSpot Community Backyards program for Franklin County, Ohio residents. Rain Brothers is partnering with the conservation organization by offering the instant $50 rebate when qualifying participants purchase one of our rain barrels. Add that to our new free shipping on rain barrels for metro-Columbus residents, and catching some rain just got a whole lot cheaper!

The Greenspot Community Backyards rebate program focuses on rainwater runoff and its detrimental impacts on local water quality, streambank erosion, and localized flooding. Participants learn how to install rain barrels and rain gardens, along with other sustainable practices such as composting at home and the use of native plants. To qualify for the rebate, residents of Franklin County must first join the Greenspot program, which encourages homeowners, businesses, non-profits and community groups to become members and make a commitment to the environment. Participants must also register and complete a online course with the Franklin Soil and Water Conservation District in order to qualify for the rebate.

Once you have the rebate, you will be given a coupon code and can complete your purchase through our online store, or by visiting our friends at City Folks Farm Shop. 

For more information about the Franklin Soil and Water Conservation District and its 2016 Greenspot Community Backyards program, check out the program here. The program offically begins in April 2016 and also offers rebates towards compost bins and native plants for qualifying participants.

Concrete Cistern pH

Concrete cisterns are, in our experience, the best type of tank to use for underground drinking water systems. Rainwater tends to have a lower pH (acidic), while concrete has a higher pH (alkaline). As rainwater fills a concrete tank, the concrete then actually helps neutralize the water and balance the pH, if not slightly alkalinize it, which is why, after the cistern has gone through a few empty-full cycles, a litmus test of your cistern water would reveal a pH of between 6-8 – the optimal range for a good drinking water system.

While concrete cisterns help neutralize acidic rainwater, initially, the residual concrete dust from the manufacturing/casting of the tanks will elevate the water's pH to high alkaline levels (10-11). This is completely normal, though for new concrete cisterns, precautions should be taken to get water down to 7-9 range. There are two approaches to managing this initial alkalinity:

1) Flush the tank. For this method, we recommend hauling in a load of water from a local water hauler (in Ohio, a list of water haulers can be obtained through your County's Department of Health or from the Ohio Department of Health Office of Environmental Health). You can then use the hauled water to rinse the walls of the tank to remove as much concrete dust residue as possible. Do not drink this water, but instead either pump it out after a few days or use it for non-potable applications (flushing toilets, showering, irrigation, etc.). Occasionally, it may take two and sometimes three full empty-fill cycles before the water inside the tank reaches a safe pH level of 9.

2) Pressure wash/scrub. For this method, once the tank has initially been installed, use a pressure washer with a 55-gallon drum of clean water and a cup of unscented chlorine bleach to pressure wash the walls of the tank. You may also use a scrub brush with a bucket of water/chlorine mix and hand scrub the walls. Doing so will remove the majority of concrete dust from the side walls. Then, when possible, pump out the water from the bottom of the tank (note: you may have to put more water into the tank to be able to pump the "dirty water" out). If it is not possible to pump out the bottom of the tank after pressure washing/scrubbing, then get a load of hauled water into the tank but do not drink water from this load. Again, use that first load for non-potable uses only.

These precautions may sound intimidating, but the reality is that the work on the front end is minimal compared to the lifetime of fresh, clean water you will receive from a concrete cistern.

As always, thanks for reading.