Friday, September 21, 2018

USING A PUMP FOR DRIP IRRIGATION: COMMON MISTAKES AND BEST SOLUTIONS

USING A PUMP FOR DRIP IRRIGATION: COMMON MISTAKES AND BEST SOLUTIONS


One of our most frequently asked questions is, “Can I use your cistern pumps with my drip irrigation system?”

The answer to this question can get a bit tricky because drip irrigation itself is a confusing subject. Three types of irrigation systems get lumped into the “drip irrigation”category, so to answer this question, first we need to know what type of drip system is being used.

DRIP TAPE

First, there is drip tape -- an inexpensive (and usually disposable) flat plastic tape that is designed to work at 10 PSI maximum. Often times, a 10 PSI pressure regulator is required to run drip tape, or else the entire irrigation system is liable to blow apart. 10 PSI is low pressure. In fact, it is much lower than the majority of pumps are able to handle. Every pump has an operating range associated with it —also known as a pump performance curve. It’s a curve because flow (measured in gallons per minute) and pressure (measured in pounds per square inch) are directly related in a pump’s performance. As you increase your demand for flow, you decrease the pump’s ability to build pressure. Likewise, the reverse is true: As you demand an increase in pressure, you decrease your flow rate. For example, our Grundfos SBA 3-45-AW will operate at 52 PSI when the flow being demanded is 5 gallons per minute, and it will operate at 38 PSI when we call for 10 GPM. When we follow the pump’s curve, we see that at 10 PSI (which, again, is the operating pressure for drip tape), the Grundfos SBA will produce a flow rate of 23 gallons per minute! It takes a LOT of drip tape to get to that kind of flow rate. 

So what are the options? Can you use a pump with drip tape systems? 

Yes and no. 

If you stick a Grundfos SBA or a Strom BSP automatic pump in a tank and run it to your drip system, chances are good that you’re going to cause that pump to short cycle constantly…it will detect a flow being demanded by your irrigation system, but, without sufficient flow rates (in this case, 23 gallons per minute), it will be able to build up so quickly to the 10PSI pressure that it will shut off immediately. That’s a quick way to burn up a pump.

There is a solution, though. A traditional drip irrigation system will be set up, in order of flow, as Pump —> Valve (automatic or manual) —> 10 PSI Pressure Regulator —> Drip Tape. If you know you aren’t going to have enough flow being demanded from your drip tape system, the simple solution is to install a “T”fitting after your valve but before your pressure regulator and run a 1/2”or 3/4”or 1”return line back to your water tank. In so doing, you will create a relief port for excess pressure and excess flow generated by the pump, causing it to run less frequently. And, if you bring your return line right into the top of your water tank, you have the added benefit of circulating the water and reducing the likelihood of algae growth. 

DRIP EMITTERS

The second type of drip irrigation system is one that uses drip emitters. Like drip tape, drip emitters typically require low pressure, and they always drastically reduce flow. Unless you are using hundreds of emitters at once, it is not recommended to use a pump to provide water to drip emitters. Instead, we recommend using zero-pressure emitters, such as Flag Emitters, where the pressure created by gravity on an above ground tank is sufficient to provide water to the emitters. 

DRIP TUBING

The third and final type of drip irrigation system is drip tubing. Drip tubing is round and generally has drip emitters embedded every 8-24”. Unlike drip tape, drip tubing can work under pressure…generally as high as 50-60 PSI. Drip tubing works well with our cistern pumps, though, again, you will want to reference the pump’s performance curve to see how much flow you should have in your irrigation system at a given pressure. For instance, if you want to run the Grundfos SBA pump at 50PSI, you need to make sure that you zone out your irrigation system so that each zone is operating at 8 GPM.

Each drip tubing roll will specify the spacing of the emitters and the flow rate of each emitter, so if you are using tubing that has emitters every 12”, and the emitters have a flow rate of 0.5 gallon per hour (tubing is usually measured in gallons per hour, not gallons per minute) per emitter, then you would 960 feet of drip tubing to get a flow rate of 8 gallons per minute and to stay within the operating capacity of the SBA pump. If you don’t need that much drip tubing, then, again, we recommend installing a return line back to your rain tank that can let water freely flow into your tank to bleed off excess pressure/flow.

Monday, March 19, 2018

Concrete Cisterns: Pros and Cons Infographic

Check out our latest infographic to learn some of the advantages and disadvantages of incorporating concrete cisterns into your water storage system.  


Plastic Cisterns: Pros and Cons Infographic

Plastic cisterns are useful for certain specific applications, but there are also drawbacks to using plastic tanks for rainwater collection. Check out our new infographic to learn more about pros and cons of plastic cisterns.



Wednesday, February 14, 2018

How To Protect Your Cistern Pump: Jet Pumps

Learn how to protect your cistern pump from potentially running dry and burning out the motor.


How To Wire A Pressure Switch

Here at Rain Brothers we get a lot of questions about how to wire a pressure switch for a water pump used in wells or cisterns.  A pressure switch is a method of controlling a pump motor.  It works just like a light switch: when you turn the switch off it disconnects the power, and when you turn the switch back on it reconnects the power.

Check out our new video tutorial for a simple, concise explanation about wiring a pressure switch: How to wire a pressure switch

Shop pressure switches and other pump parts in our online store. 

Sunday, January 14, 2018

Cleaning a Rain Cistern or Spring Tank

In all our years of working on cisterns, we've seen, tried, and heard about many different ways of cleaning out a rain cistern or spring tank. Some ways are more, shall we say, "creative" than others, but only a handful have proven themselves to be effective and safe, which is exactly the metric we strive for in conducing our business. 

Below is a link to a video tutorial we did that goes over our time-tested technique. Please note that you may need the following tools for cleaning out your own tank:
*Sterilized ladder (wash down with chlorine solution)
*Sterilized boots or hip wadders
*Sterilized pump (we prefer a 2" submersible trash pump, such as ones made by Gorman Rupp)
*Discharge hose for pump
*Food-safe, sterile drum or barrel
*Pressure washer
*Wet/Dry ShopVac
*Sterile flat shovel
*5-Gal Buckets

If you have a concrete cistern (especially if it's a concrete block cistern), you may want to also have concrete patch/Thoroseal/Hydraulic Cement on hand to make necessary repairs to the wall of the tank.

Here is the video. Hope it helps!