USING A PUMP FOR DRIP IRRIGATION: COMMON MISTAKES AND BEST SOLUTIONS

One of our most frequently asked questions is, “Can I use your cistern pumps with my drip irrigation system?”

The answer to this question can get a bit tricky because drip irrigation itself is a confusing subject. Three types of irrigation systems get lumped into the “drip irrigation”category, so to answer this question, first we need to know what type of drip system is being used.

DRIP TAPE

First, there is drip tape -- an inexpensive (and usually disposable) flat plastic tape that is designed to work at 10 PSI maximum. Often times, a 10 PSI pressure regulator is required to run drip tape, or else the entire irrigation system is liable to blow apart. 10 PSI is low pressure. In fact, it is much lower than the majority of pumps are able to handle. Every pump has an operating range associated with it —also known as a pump performance curve. It’s a curve because flow (measured in gallons per minute) and pressure (measured in pounds per square inch) are directly related in a pump’s performance. As you increase your demand for flow, you decrease the pump’s ability to build pressure. Likewise, the reverse is true: As you demand an increase in pressure, you decrease your flow rate. For example, our Grundfos SBA 3-45-AW will operate at 52 PSI when the flow being demanded is 5 gallons per minute, and it will operate at 38 PSI when we call for 10 GPM. When we follow the pump’s curve, we see that at 10 PSI (which, again, is the operating pressure for drip tape), the Grundfos SBA will produce a flow rate of 23 gallons per minute! It takes a LOT of drip tape to get to that kind of flow rate. 

So what are the options? Can you use a pump with drip tape systems? 

Yes and no. 

If you stick a Grundfos SBA or a Strom BSP automatic pump in a tank and run it to your drip system, chances are good that you’re going to cause that pump to short cycle constantly…it will detect a flow being demanded by your irrigation system, but, without sufficient flow rates (in this case, 23 gallons per minute), it will be able to build up so quickly to the 10PSI pressure that it will shut off immediately. That’s a quick way to burn up a pump.

There is a solution, though. A traditional drip irrigation system will be set up, in order of flow, as Pump —> Valve (automatic or manual) —> 10 PSI Pressure Regulator —> Drip Tape. If you know you aren’t going to have enough flow being demanded from your drip tape system, the simple solution is to install a “T”fitting after your valve but before your pressure regulator and run a 1/2”or 3/4”or 1”return line back to your water tank. In so doing, you will create a relief port for excess pressure and excess flow generated by the pump, causing it to run less frequently. And, if you bring your return line right into the top of your water tank, you have the added benefit of circulating the water and reducing the likelihood of algae growth. 

DRIP EMITTERS

The second type of drip irrigation system is one that uses drip emitters. Like drip tape, drip emitters typically require low pressure, and they always drastically reduce flow. Unless you are using hundreds of emitters at once, it is not recommended to use a pump to provide water to drip emitters. Instead, we recommend using zero-pressure emitters, such as Flag Emitters, where the pressure created by gravity on an above ground tank is sufficient to provide water to the emitters. 

DRIP TUBING

The third and final type of drip irrigation system is drip tubing. Drip tubing is round and generally has drip emitters embedded every 8-24”. Unlike drip tape, drip tubing can work under pressure…generally as high as 50-60 PSI. Drip tubing works well with our cistern pumps, though, again, you will want to reference the pump’s performance curve to see how much flow you should have in your irrigation system at a given pressure. For instance, if you want to run the Grundfos SBA pump at 50PSI, you need to make sure that you zone out your irrigation system so that each zone is operating at 8 GPM.

Each drip tubing roll will specify the spacing of the emitters and the flow rate of each emitter, so if you are using tubing that has emitters every 12”, and the emitters have a flow rate of 0.5 gallon per hour (tubing is usually measured in gallons per hour, not gallons per minute) per emitter, then you would 960 feet of drip tubing to get a flow rate of 8 gallons per minute and to stay within the operating capacity of the SBA pump. If you don’t need that much drip tubing, then, again, we recommend installing a return line back to your rain tank that can let water freely flow into your tank to bleed off excess pressure/flow.

Concrete Cisterns: Pros and Cons Infographic

Check out our latest infographic to learn some of the advantages and disadvantages of incorporating concrete cisterns into your water storage system.  

Plastic Cisterns: Pros and Cons Infographic

Plastic cisterns are useful for certain specific applications, but there are also drawbacks to using plastic tanks for rainwater collection. Check out our new infographic to learn more about pros and cons of plastic cisterns.

Pump Pressure Switch: Low Level Cut-Off Pressure Switches

There are many benefits to adding a low level pressure switch to your cistern or well pump set-up.  Low level cut off pressure switches turn the pumps off if the water pressure dips below 15 psi.

Watch our simple, concise video tutorial on how to operate this pressure switch here.

Shop for pressure switches and other water pump accessories in our online store.

How To Protect Your Cistern Pump: Jet Pumps

Learn how to protect your cistern pump from potentially running dry and burning out the motor.

Check out our video tutorial on protecting jet pumps here.

Shop for pumps and other rainwater harvesting supplies in our online shop here.

How To Wire A Pressure Switch

Here at Rain Brothers we get a lot of questions about how to wire a pressure switch for a water pump used in wells or cisterns.  A pressure switch is a method of controlling a pump motor.  It works just like a light switch: when you turn the switch off it disconnects the power, and when you turn the switch back on it reconnects the power.

Check out our new video tutorial for a simple, concise explanation about wiring a pressure switch: How to wire a pressure switch

Shop pressure switches and other pump parts in our online store. 

Cleaning a Rain Cistern or Spring Tank

In all our years of working on cisterns, we've seen, tried, and heard about many different ways of cleaning out a rain cistern or spring tank. Some ways are more, shall we say, "creative" than others, but only a handful have proven themselves to be effective and safe, which is exactly the metric we strive for in conducing our business. 

Below is a link to a video tutorial we did that goes over our time-tested technique. Please note that you may need the following tools for cleaning out your own tank:

*Sterilized ladder (wash down with chlorine solution)

*Sterilized boots or hip wadders

*Sterilized pump (we prefer a 2" submersible trash pump, such as ones made by Gorman Rupp)

*Discharge hose for pump

*Food-safe, sterile drum or barrel

*Pressure washer

*Wet/Dry ShopVac

*Sterile flat shovel

*5-Gal Buckets

If you have a concrete cistern (especially if it's a concrete block cistern), you may want to also have concrete patch/Thoroseal/Hydraulic Cement on hand to make necessary repairs to the wall of the tank.

Here is the video. Hope it helps!

Rain Brothers Offering CorGal Corrugated Steel Water Tanks for Rainwater Harvesting

Rain Brothers is proud to offer a complete line of Corrugated Galvanized Steel Water Storage Tanks from CorGal. From residential scale to commercial installations, from 500 to 500,000 gallon capacities... we are your source for CorGal's line of tanks.

As CorGal’s website states, their water storage tanks are popular for many applications including rainwater harvesting, stormwater management, fire protection, irrigation, agricultural, industrial, mining, potable drinking water and more. The tanks are manufactured from high quality corrugated, hot-dipped galvanized steel for superior strength and durability. Each CorGal Tank is engineered to withstand the wind and snow loads and seismic forces at specific locations to ensure longevity of the tank. Intensive engineering to national design codes makes these tanks extremely adaptable to any climate, landscape type or building facility. Every tank is custom built, unique to the customer's needs and assembled at the project site.

Architects/Engineers: Let us help with your system design. Contact us today for specs, cut sheets, design ideas, and more. 

Don't want a big steel tank? We also offer residential-sized corrugated steel tanks.  Contact us today for more information.  

Municipal Rainwater Conservation Programs

Rain Brothers LLC is proud to partner with local and state municipalities and agencies to provide discounted rain barrels and rain barrel kits to residents.

Municipal rain barrel programs are great for educating the public on the ecological, financial, and community benefits of rainwater conservation. Interested in how your municipality could partner with Rain Brothers LLC? Contact us today! We are happy to design a rain barrel municipal program for the residents of your area.

Some of our municipal clients include:

Franklin County, Ohio Community Backyards Program

Los Angeles Beautification Team

Florida Yards and Neighborhoods Program

Contact us today to discuss your municipal rainwater conservation program! 

Rainwater Harvesting in Ohio: Regulations and Restrictions

​Did you know that the Ohio Department of Health regulates “private water systems”? This includes cisterns, potable water wells, ponds, springs, and hauled water storage tanks. By ODH's definition, private water systems provide drinking water to fewer than 25 people, less than 60 days/year, or have less than 15 service connections. Under that definition, these regulations are applicable to residential homes and communities with fewer than 25 residents, as well as small businesses, churches, etc.

Find the ODH Ohio Administrative Code regulations here. 

Which UV system is right for you?

If you've been to our online store to look for a UV (ultraviolet) sterilization system, you've seen that there are many different options available, with prices ranging from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars. It makes little sense why there is such a huge price range, right? So what is the difference?

To understand the price ranges, we need to understand that UV systems can be separated by their classification, flow rate, and sophistication.

First, a bit about classification. UV units are generally measured as either NSF Class B or NSF Class A. An NSF Class B system will be a less expensive option. These systems are designed to be secondary sterilization/disinfection filters for bacteria control. In other words, a Class B system should be used in conjunction with another means of controlling bacteria. This can include chlorine injection, ozone, or reverse osmosis. Because of this, Class B systems do not measure as high of an UV output/dosage at a given flow rate. An example of a Class B unit would include our Trojan UV Max D4 model.

In contrast, we have NSF Class A systems. NSF defines as Class A UV system as one that can act as the sole means of sterilization/disinfection for a given water system. Specifically, the UV dosage will be higher at a given flow rate. Class A systems usually include a flow restrictor (to maintain proper UV dosage at a specified flow rate; i.e., 10 GPM) and a clarity sensor (to measure water clarity and to alert when cloudiness/turbidity is restricting full dosage). In Ohio, the Department of Health requires that all UV systems meet NSF Class A guidelines for any system that is used for primary water supply. An example of a Class A unit would include our UV Max Pro 10.

Along with classification, each UV system will have a flow rate assigned to it. For the Class A UV Max Pro 10, the "10" refers to the flow rate for the unit -- i.e., 10 gallons per minute at NSF Class A standard dosage. You'll want to match the UV system with your pump capabilities. Most residential applications will not need a system greater than 10 gallons per minute (GPM).

Finally, there are various levels of sophistication for UV systems. By far, the most advanced and sophisticated UV system that we offer is our line of UV Pure sterilizers. The UV Pure systems are virtually maintenance-free. Commonly, a UV system (like the UV Max or the Sterilight units) will include four major components: A lamp, a glass sleeve (encases the lamp and protects it from moisture), a stainless steel chamber, and a ballast with control box. In these traditional units, the user must regularly turn off the system and clean the glass sleeve that encases the bulb in order to ensure full penetration of UV light into the water supply occurs. Doing so can be a somewhat tedious and delicate process, especially if a water supply has high turbidity or low clarity. In contrast, the UV Pure units use two lamps and reflective interior surface, allowing for fuller penetration of UV dosage. Additionally, instead of the lamps being encased in a glass sleeve, the water is encased in a sleeve, and the sleeve is regularly and automatically cleaned by a motorized scrubber. Whereas the UV Max and Sterilight units require quarterly maintenance, the UV Pure systems, on average, go years without needing to be maintained (other than replacing the lamps). 

So which system do we recommend? It depends on the application. If you are installing a residential rainwater collection system, and you want to use UV as the sole means of sterilization, we almost always recommend the UV Pure Upstream 10. This unit continually proves itself to be the best in terms of quality, and it performs at NSF Class A standards.

As always, thanks for reading!

Nobody Needs Zika

Experts are forecasting that the Zika virus, carried by mosquitos, has a very real potential of spreading throughout the United States this summer. Mosquitos' larvae grow in standing water, and those of us enthusiastic about rain barrels should do our due diligence to prevent mosquito larvae from growing in our rainwater. Here, I've compiled a list of ways to prevent mosquitoes from breeding, not only in your rain barrels, but also around your home.

1. Make sure you rain barrel has a closed top. It should either have a lid, or insect netting for preventing mosquitos from getting to the water. If you're unable to have a lid or netting, make sure to treat your rainwater with mosquito dunks that will kill the larvae.

2.Check the grade around your home for any low spots where water may puddle. Fill in any low spots with dirt and seed to ensure your property sheds water to the existing drainage.

3. If you have a pond, regularly manage any floating debris to eliminate sites where mosquitos could lay eggs.

4. Remove any old tires and have them recycled. If you have a tire swing, drill holes in the bottom so that water can drain out.

5. Ensure that your gutters have a proper slope so that water is draining effectively toward the downspout. Clean out your gutters regularly to prevent standing water.

6. Be aware of accidental rain-water collectors around your home, such as awnings, watering cans, bird baths, tarps, etc. Make sure to empty or change standing/stagnant water regularly.

7. If you have an ornamental pond, be sure to stock it with fish to eat the larvae.

Nobody needs zika, let us do our part to help stop the spread.

Colorado Legalizes Rain Barrels

Rainwater collection is now legal throughout the United States. Colorado Governor, John Hickenlooper, recently signed a new law allowing Colorado residents to have two rain barrels on their property, holding up to 110 gallons. It would seem intuitive to many people that rain that falls on your property should be your water to use, should you choose to collect it. However, it had been technically illegal in Colorado for many years based on archaic water laws. The gist of the existing law was that collecting rainwater on your property prevented said water from reaching farmers and other water rights holders.  And in a state like Colorado, where drought is common, a farmers' concern is understandable. However, there are many reasons why allowing rain barrels may be beneficial for both residents and farmers.

Owning a rain barrel fosters a sense of water conservation. When irrigating a garden with a rain barrel, one becomes acutely aware of the amount of water being used and considers efficient ways to water such as drip line or soaker hose kits. When one irrigates from their house spigot, the amount of water being used is harder to quantify, and one is likely to over-water.

This mindset of conservation is what Colorado lawmakers are hoping to to cultivate by passing the new law allowing rain barrels. It is best for the entire community, both residents and farmers, when the general public is cognizant of their personal water-usage and takes steps to efficiently use their water.

Rainwater collection has already become popular in many other states, and is even encouraged by local governments. Colorado may be a little late to the game, but we're glad they're finally here.

Components for a 5500-Gallon Underground Rainwater System for Drinking

Ever wondered what you'd need to convert collected rain water into usable potable drinking water for your household? Below is an average parts and materials cost for 5500 gallon residential drinking water system. If you interested in utilizing rain water for drinking water (and any other uses) for your household, this gives you an idea of the materials you'd need and the cost it would take.

• 1 5500 gallon precast concrete cistern - $3,844.00
• 1 Wisy Vortex Filter w/ extension - 996.20
• 1 Franklin 10GPM 1/2HP 115V Submersible Cistern Pump - $349.95
• 1 Pressure Tank - $174.00
• 1 Pump Control Kit/Tank Tee Kit - $88.00
• 1 10" Cartridge Filter Housings - $20.00
• 4 Sediment Filters, 10" x 2.5", 20 micron - $22.00 
• 1 18GPM Viqua Plus Series UV System - $875.00
• 1 Pentek 3G Standard 20" Clear Filter Housing - $65.00
• 4 Carbon block filters, 20" x 2.5", 5 micron - $96.00
• 1 Tank Gauge - Tank Level Monitor - $24.95
• 1 Mozzie Stoppa Hi-Flow 4" Flap Valve - $12.00
• 1 Brass Check Valve - $21.50
• 1 Pitless Adapter - $45.80
• 1 Submersible Wire Splice Kit - $4.10 

As you can tell, a lot of parts and supplies are needed for a complete home drinking system. The above list totals roughly $6,660. You will then still need pipe (to carry water from your downspouts to your tank and then to an overflow), water line (to connect from the pump inside the cistern to your house supply), wire (to wire your pump to your panel), excavation work, and backfill gravel (to create a base in the excavated pit for the tank and to backfill around the tank). 

While the supplies listed do not include the cost of labor, it hopefully provides you with an overview of the types of materials that go into a complete installation of a residential drinking water system.

Every Person should have a LifeStraw

There are many different types of insurance available to us nowadays. We have become very adept at making sure we are prepared for numerous bad situations by paying a monthly premium to know that someone will help us in our time in need. We insure our health, our homes, our cars, our credit, our data, our vacations...and the list goes on and on. But what about insuring one of our most basic needs...access to clean water? In many disaster and emergency situations, filing a claim with your agent will probably not be the most effecient way to secure one of your most basic needs for survival. This is why every household should have some type of LifeStraw filtration. 

The LifeStraw personal water filter, a "Best Invention of the Year" (Time magazine) winner, enables users to drink water safely from contaminated water sources. LifeStraw is ideal for homeowners during emergencies such as local flooding which can contaminate drinking water supplies. LifeStraw is also ideal for campers and hikers who may be drinking from rivers or lakes and are unsure of the water safety. Because LifeStraw is lightweight and compact, it is also great for travelers who do not want to rely on the quality of local water.

LifeStraw is the most advanced personal water filter available today. LifeStraw surpasses EPA guidelines for E. coli, Giardia, and Cryptosporidium oocysts, rigorous standards for water filtration.

LifeStraw filters down to an incredible, 0.2 microns in size! This removes virtually all the bacteria (99.9999%) and protozoa (99.9%) from contaminated water, and reduces turbidity (muddiness) by filtering out suspended particles.

LifeStraw Buy One, Give One: for every LifeStraw water filter sold, a child in Africa receives clean water for an entire school year. With a LifeStraw, you not only insure access to clean water for you and your family, but for others as well.

How to irrigate using a low-pressure water system

Ever wondered how to keep your garden watered more efficiently while still using captured rain water? Setting up a low-pressure watering system (a soaker hose system) is a great way! Below are some important tools you'll need and the steps you can take to ensure a well-functioning system.

Tools & Materials

• Plastic or metal stakes 
• MrSoakerhose - pre-measure the path of the hose where you are going to lay it.
• Polytubing
• Filter to keep particles from clogging your soaker hose (recommended is 200 mesh).
• Water timer (can be installed later) 
• Y connector with shutoff, splitters, fittings

*Remember Rain Barrel Soaker Hose is intended for connection to a rain barrel faucet. Connecting it to a normal pressurized faucet may cause spraying and damage to the hose.

Lay Out the Hose in Your Garden Beds: Position soaker hoses throughout the garden near each plant within 6 to 12 inches of the base. On slopes, run across the slope, not up and down. In perennial beds, keep hoses about 18 inches (sandy soils) to 24 inches (clay soil) apart. For annual plants space the runs closer, 12-18 inches apart, to make sure water reaches their shallow roots. Stake the hose into place with stakes wherever it needs it to secure the hose's position.

Hide the Hose: After testing the soaker hose to see that it waters the area well, you can cover it with 2 inches (or more) of mulch, such as wood chips, bark, leaves, or compost, or even decorative rocks. The mulch keeps water from evaporating and helps spread the water flow. It also helps protect the hose from the sun. Have you ever felt the temperature of water that was just sitting in a hose out in the sun? It's hot! Can be used above or below ground. Soaker hose IS NOT for lawn areas.

Stakes: Use to secure soaker hose

Watering times: Start out by running your soaker hose for about 40 minutes once a week, or 20 minutes twice a week for sandy soils and annual plants and gardens that have shallower roots. The goal is to wet the soil in the plant's root zone. You can tell if the plant is getting enough water by digging a hole with a trowel to see if the root zone is wet (wait a while after watering before you check, so the water has time to soak in). Leaves may droop a little on hot days but if they stay droopy after the hottest part of the day, they're probably too dry. Drooping can also be a sign of over watering but again, check the soil first! Once you've got the timing figured out, attach and set a timer to the system. This will make it possible for the watering system to work even when you are on vacation.

Trees: Using a soaker hose encircle the tree with the hose beginning at the drip line. Add a circle of soaker hose every 2' inward from the drip line throughout the root zone. Try to water the soil areas directly beneath the foliage and shaded by the tree. Do not water beyond the drip-line and do not water closer than 3 feet to the trunk base on established trees.

Hanging planters, pots and window boxes: Large, hard to move barrels, pots and window boxes will do better with a slow running soaker hose. Water regularly as the dry season goes on. Hanging plants may require watering more frequently as the wind and sun dry them out. During exceptionally hot weather (80's or 90's) hanging baskets may need watering daily, or even twice daily if the basket has limited soil area.

Maintaining Your Soaker Hose System: Once or twice a year, unscrew the end caps and flush out any accumulated sediment. Flushing it at the start of the year will help you check for leaks, and ensure that it's not plugged. Make sure everyone working in the garden knows the soaker is there under the mulch, so they don't accidentally damage it. Most cuts or nicks can be repaired with couplings. Soaker Hose is UV stabilized - won't freeze in the cold or crack in the sun.

Checkout the designs below to create your ideal soaker hose system:

A great layout for raised beds

Center Design

Bringing the water in to the center will help with a more even water distribution. This design works well if your rows are rather long.

Constant Flow Design

This creates a constant flow of water, helping to provide a more even distribution of water. 

Use Tees on the corners, in place of the elbows, and put a cap on one end of the Tee, so you can remove the cap to blow your system out. This is a closed system

Center Design 2

Coming into the center of your design will help achieve a more even distribution of water. You can use the female fittings or install the soaker hose directly into the tees.

Hill Design

Install soaker hose on a hill by laying your hose across the hill, rather than up and down the hill.

Easy Closed System

This system uses Female ends on both ends, screwed onto the tees for easy removal of the soaker hose, for tilling and winter storage. It is also a closed system.

For large-scale systems